I am not sure what motivated my friend Susan and me to choose Marfa, TX, as the destination for a midweek fall mini-vacation, but the storied art town near the state’s southwestern border with Mexico proved a seductive mecca for an artist and an art journalist. Some may know it as the setting for Chris Kraus’s brash epistolary novel I Love Dick, and the Amazon Prime series of the same name (wherein one character describes it as “a small quirky place . . . a combination of blue-collar desert town and folksy artistic retreat”).