
The Art of Winning (And Losing): On E. Y. Zhao’s Underspin
A few weeks ago, I visited a friend at her family’s house in the Rockaways. The house was painted in the colors of the Sabrett hot dog brand — yellow and blue — and the living room featured a matching bench with a Sabrett umbrella sprouting from the center of the table like a parasitic growth. Children rode their bikes down the street. Mothers walked their little white dogs in synchronized packs. There were about 10 or 11 of us, and we spent the day at the beach reading, drinking, eating. That evening, we gathered on the backyard patio while mosquitoes tore our bare legs to shreds. All conversations eventually funnel into sex or violence or both.

